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Ellen Wilcox "Twisted Sister No. 2" is the first thru-hiker of the newest section of the IAT/SIA. The new section located on Cape Breton Island in the province of Nova Scotia, Canada, is still in the development stage but Ellen mixed thru-hiking with some trail development and planning. The route she took was northbound from the Canso Causeway in Port Hastings to the Newfoundland Ferry Terminal in North Sidney through some wonderful countryside in the Celtic region that included the rugged coastline of south western Cape Breton on the Trans Canada Trail; the highlands of Mabou on the Cape Mabou Trail System; and the beaches and majestic coastline of the Bras d’Or Lakes region. The total route is about 149.0 miles (241.0 kiliometres).
Ellen was the first Canadian woman to thru-hike the IAT/SIA in 2002. She has also hiked most of the AT in New England and she and her sister, Karen “Twisted Sister No. 1” are slowly but surely hiking their way to Georgia. Ellen lives in Mount Uniacke, near Halifax, Nova Scotia. She will be making a presentation on her hike at the IAT/SIA International meeting in Millinocket, Maine in September.
Below is Ellen's Story along with some photographs…
I started my hike on the newest section of the SIA-IAT on Friday, June 27th at the Trans Canada Trail (TCT) Pavilion next to the Canso causeway in Port Hastings. Present were Jim Vance, fellow NS IAT member, and Hugh MacEachern, President of the Ceiligh Coastal Trail section of the TCT. I have to admit that I was apprehensive about doing this hike because I was the first to do the route, and all I had to guide me was my memory, my trail notes, some topo & snowmobile maps, and a GPS that I didn’t even know how to use. But, after a few quick photos in the drizzling rain and a few nervous tears, I hit the trail and by the time I got to Ghost Beach, my fears were gone and I was grinning from ear to ear. Another SIA-IAT adventure was underway!
The first section of my walk went from Port Hastings to Mabou on the TCT for 67.7 km (42.0 mi). It began with a spectacular but rocky 4 km (2.5 mi) walk across Ghost Beach which is a thin strip of land between the Canso Canal and Long Pond. After that, I was on the abandoned railway bed for three days where I walked through many small, friendly communities such as Craigmore, Judique, Port Hood and Mabou. The views of St George’s Bay and the Atlantic Ocean were never-ending in this section and were absolutely magnificent; and even when I was inland, the path ahead was vibrantly green with lush branches and trees overhanging the trail.
In Mabou, I veered off the TCT and climbed to the top of Cape Mabou at 335 m (1100 ft) and out to the summit of Beinn Bhiorach (Gaelic for “Steep Mountain”) via the Cape Mabou Trail Club’s network of trails centred around MacKinnon’s Brook. I’d been to the Cape Mabou Highlands before and knew this wilderness plateau was a “must see” part of my hike but this time was even better than the last time. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and from atop Beinn Bhiorach, all I could see were the rolling hills of the highlands and the rugged coastline of the Northumberland Strait. It was breathtaking!
I left Inverness on Canada Day (July 01st) and walked over Godfreys Mountain (near Scotsville and Lake Ainslie) to Egypt Falls via the local snowmobile trails. This was the end of my breathtaking views and coastal breezes for a few days, and was the beginning of unseasonably hot weather, sore feet and deer flies. The snowmobile trails were really nice but for the most part, this was a lonely, dusty section of trail. The highlight was a side-trip over to Egypt Falls, one of Nova Scotia’s finest water falls which truly was awesome, especially in the stillness and quiet of early morning. I spent a fair bit of time there, just soaking my feet in the frigid cold water and writing in my journal.
Next, I hiked 23 km (14.3 mi) across a plateau on a maze of logging roads that the locals call “The Barrens”. And, for good reason, too – it really IS barren up there and for me; it was hot, dry and monotonous too. I’d never experienced such surreal stillness on the trail before so that in itself made The Barrens a pretty special and unique place. Finally, I descended Lewis Mountain at 700 m (2300 ft) and crossed the ferry at Little Narrows near Iona. And, thankfully, I was back to spectacular views and coastal breezes once again.
By this time, I was sun burnt, blistered, and pretty much done in so I decided to take a zero day at the Grand Narrows Hotel B & B in Grand Narrows, a small stretch of paradise located right on the trail. This beautifully restored beachfront B & B (circa 1887) is nestled on the shore of Barra Strait on the Bras d’Or Lakes, the largest salt-water lake in the world. The owners, Terry and Elaine, made me feel at home and I couldn’t have asked for a better place to rest. I will never forget the sunsets I saw there.
The next day (Saturday), I started out from the Grand Narrows Hotel B & B and hiked along Derby Point Road past Lily’s Beach and Piper Beach, and then I walked on a flat, grassy cross country ski trail near Shenacadie with pretty views of the Bras d’Or Lakes. My intention was to get as close as possible to the Old Branch Road near North Sydney which would put me back on the TCT one last time before the final push into North Sydney the next day. But, by mid-afternoon on Saturday, my feet stopped hurting and I simply walked 32.8 km (20.3 mi) up Highway 223 -- with more incredible views to enjoy along the way -- until I found myself staring at the TCT sign post on the Old Branch Road. I couldn’t believe it!
So, my plan was to celebrate my last night on the trail by watching the sun go down at Scotch Lake but the black flies were beyond belief so I ended up walking all the way to North Sydney. I checked into the Clansman Motel at 9:35 p.m., after 13 hours of hiking and as anyone can tell you, I was bouncing off the walls with excitement!
And so, on Sunday morning, July 06th, I strolled 3.2 km (2.0 mi) down the streets of North Sydney to the NL ferry terminal where I kissed the “Welcome to Cape Breton Island Nova Scotia” sign and Jim Vance met me. We took lots of pictures, ate brunch at Micky D's, and with that, my Nova Scotia SIA-IAT hike -- 10 days and 238.4 km (147.8 mi) – was over.
Like all my hikes, this was another great adventure and I’d do it all again in a minute, blisters sun burn and all. But it was even more special because of the world-renowned hospitality and kindness of the Cape Bretoners I met along the way, and the pride I took in hiking a trail that’s given me so many good memories and lifelong friendships in my own home province of Nova Scotia. It just doesn’t get any better than that.
And, in case you’re wondering about the wildlife count: 2 rabbits, 2 squirrels, 1 chipmunk, 1 garden snake, 1 dead mouse, and a ZILLION black flies, horse flies and deer flies.
Ghost Beach
TCT
Cape Mabou
Egypt Falls
Grand Narrows Sunset
North Sydney
Cape Breton!
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