 |
John Ryan has just completed a thru-hike of the IAT/SIA in Newfoundland and Labrador. Following is a short report from him with a few pictures.
From June 18 through July 17, I took a long walk on Newfoundland's western coast to follow as closely as the terrain would permit the Long Range Mountains, the northernmost continuation of the Appalachian range in North America. I had always romanticized Newfoundland, lying at the verge of the Arctic, or so it seemed, stark and barren with fabled fogs, notoriously ornery ocean currents, and the vestiges of wilderness that have been mostly gentrified along the eastern seaboard of the continent.
The International Appalachian Trail in Newfoundland and Labrador (IATNL) is thus far a collection of diverse pathways including the Transcanada Trail (TCT), or the old railbed of the Newfie Bullet, a reputedly long passenger train service to St. John's that concluded operations in 1969. In addition to the old railbed, I followed logging trails, community roads, back-country lanes, the Trans-Canada Highway, map and compass alpine traverses in Gros Morne National Park, bushwhacks galore, and last but not least the Viking Trail highway to L'Anse aux Meadows, 600 miles north of Port aux Basques where the journey began.
Now a multi-use trail frequented mainly by ATVs, the old railbed section of the IAT begins in Port aux Basques in the southwestern corner of the province and allows walkers to cover the 150 miles to Corner Brook, the largest town on the IATNL and the sole metropolis of western Newfoundland. I more or less followed the TCT north, with a few digressions, first at Codroy Pond where I veered west through a maze of skidder roads en route to the Highlands. Disoriented by heavy rain and shivering limbs, I spent the better part of a morning testing out every skidder road for access to the coast, eventually finding my way and landing exhausted on the sodden grass of an overlook half revealing the sea through a layer of fog.. I pondered Cormack, the early 19th century Newfoundland explorer while plucking off soppy shoes and reveling in thoughts of
21st century comforts, soon to come.
Passing Old Man and Wigwam Lakes north of Hughes Brook, I exchanged greetings with locals celebrating Canada Day and felt myself in good company along the easy going dirt roads leading out to the fjord lands of Bonne Bay. Nearing Little Bonne Bay Pond, big rain drops pelted me and mosquitoes reached hoard-like proportions and I commenced running the rest of the way to Wiltondale, making a waist-deep river crossing without reservation. "Better to drown," I thought, "than be eaten alive by the vampirous lot."
After visiting with Greg Wood, Director of Communications for the IATNL and regaining strength and stamina with a meal of moose liver and turnip greens, I began the road walk to the Gros Morne trail up Newfoundland's second highest peak at 806 meters (2644 feet). My head was filled with cod tongues and cheeks, although my belly was still rejecting the idea. Noting several crystalline springs along the way, I was in good spirits as the deep fjords of Bonne Bay reflected to the west the tawny mountains of the Long Range including the peridotite Tablelands, a geologist's splendor of subverted mantle rock resembling Arizona in color and formation. The trail up Gros Morne is the entryway to the Long Range and North Rim Traverses, an unmarked 72 kilometer (45 mile)route in the heart of the glacially sculpted park, leading to the
oft-photographed Western Brook Pond overlook and eventually back to the Viking Trail highway towards the northern boundary of the park. The Traverses offered a welcome challenge that tested 1) my navigational skills 2) my patience for tuckamore tangles, (the ancient stunted and prickly spruce patches that loom like horror on the horizon) ane 3) my faith in the paths the moose make (where were those ungulates going anyhow? I hope they made it).
The remainder of the IAT in the Province of Newfoundland and Labrador follows the highway, except for a 30 mile section of dirt road that crosses Watt's Point Ecological Reserve. Blue Cove, Black Duck Cove, Pond Cove, Shoal Cove East are some of the many small covey towns encountered in this northern area of the province. Watt's Point took my breath away, partially because of the intense wind, but also for its barren limestone features and endemic plant species. The coast of Labrador comes into view and icebergs are seen floating down the Strait of Belle Isle. The final stretch to the ancient Viking settlement of L'Anse aux Meadows brought the most moose sightings, about a dozen, in one day and the greatest number of ride offers without solicitation, about a dozen. "That would be cheating" conceded one friendly local who took
pity on me enough to stop and offer his services, having spotted me several days before along the highway. He was wise man who needed no further explanation for my refusal.
Standing in the recreated sod huts of the Norse people, I considered the spirit of adventure that drives us onward. In any long walk, the question always rises usually with exhaustion "Why am I doing this?" This query was continually answered by the generosity and openness of the local people, the endless rolling waves of the cold ocean, and the landscape of mountains and lakes that sleeps like a hibernating bear awaiting its cue for awakening: a walking trail through the mountains like no other.
Photos Above:
Walking through the barrens of Watt's Ecological Reserve
Yes there are shelters along the IAT-Nfl
The sod huts of L'Anse aux Meadows
Another shelter
The classic Western Brook Pond shot
Red barn with boat near Eddies Cove
| |
