TRAIL JOURNAL OF FIRST HIKERS
SIA/IAT 15/19 SEPT 2008
At the September 2008 annual INTERNATIONAL SIA/IAT MEETING, held at Twin Pines, Millinocket, Maine, President Dick Anderson announced that Earl Raymond and Maureen Ellerton would be the first to hike the under construction first 30 miles of the INTERNATIONAL SIA/IAT with MOTHER NATURES SON (John Calhoun) & COTTON JOE (Joe Norman).
Mother Natures Son was a guest speaker at our meeting and Earl thought that it would be helpful if he would complete his approximately 1400 mile hike from the tip of Newfoundland to Katahdin on our new 30 mile section of remote trail rather than along roads. In doing so he could comment on the condition and friendliness of the trail.
At the banquet Dick, Maureen, Mother Natures Son and others down at the other end of the table decided in the excitement and enthusiasm of the moment that Earl & Maureen would accompany Mother Natures Son & Cotton Joe on this trip.
This being news to Earl, he declined because he and Maureen were totally unprepared.
The next day it became obvious that although Earl had at one time, or in some areas several times, walked all 30 miles there were still two isolated one mile sections where the trail was not well marked (not at all per MNS, CJ & MO) and in both cases it was 17 miles to the nearest paved road.
Two days later Earl & Maureen were at the Appalachian Hostel in Millinocket packed and ready to leave Avalanche Field early the next morning.
THE HIKE (journal by Earl Raymond)
We left our vehicle at the hostel and Paul provided transportation to Baxter Park. There is a sign out box at Avalanche Field (Katahdin Lake Trail Head) where we signed out of the park at 7 AM at the beginning of our 35-mile walk.
We had not had any contact with Mother Natures Son, but knew that he had 23 miles to go before he met Cotton Joe at Matagamon Lake and started the 36 mile hike to Roaring Brook and then on up Katahdin. As we found out later they left Matagamon Wilderness Campground, after having breakfast with Sue & Joe Christensen, the same day that we left Avalanche Field, and hiked the 17 miles into and stayed in Lunksoos lean-to that night.
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The 3.2 mile trail from Avalanche Field to Katahdin Lake has been and is being improved with bog bridges over some of the old corduroy roads and is a very pleasant hike. We had hiked in a few days ago while at our annual meeting and at that time looked at Katahdin from the dock and took the short walk to the artist point at the outlet. Reservations can be made to stay at Katahdin Lake Camps and Holly greeted us, gave Maureen a cup of coffee, and directed us to the trail and logging road that leads 1.8 miles to the east gate, EPI land and the beginning of the 30 mile SIA /IAT.
This last 5 miles is in Baxter Park and all rules and regulations, as with all registered campers and hikers, must be observed.
From the gate it is 5.5 miles to Wassataquoik Lean-to along abandoned logging roads.
About 1300 feet along this logging road (#16) is an intersection with the Gardner Road. From this intersection we had a view of Kathdin and a look at Barnard Mt to north.
We turned left and continued north straight along this Gardner logging road for about 2.4 miles, crossing the washed out bridge over Katahdin Brook, and up a long grade to an intersection. Turned to the right and continued east along the road.
After hiking about a mile it was noon and we stopped for a rest and lunch. I had trouble early on with my day type pack, it was pulling to the left and Holly had tried to adjust it at the Katahdin Lake Camp.
It was a perfect day for backpacking, the leaves were just starting to turn and we had come about 8 miles by noon.
We continued along the road circling around Barnard Mountain and down to the intersection with an old road along the Wassataquoik. Along the way there is a view of Deasey Mt and a distinctive patch of burned area which is light green in the spring and a purple color in the fall. Although we did not see the fire cabin there are two sections of this road can be seen from the cabin on Deasey.
At five miles the trail intersects the old Wassataquoik Tote Road. Orin Falls is to the left about 1.5 miles. A turn to the right and in a short half mile is the Wassataquoik lean-to and campsite where we repacked and decided to continue on.
The trail/ road crosses Katahdin Stream and continues on up along a very steep Esker for ½ mile and then a trail to the left leads down to the river crossing. There is a steep approach at the river and looking from above at the fast moving water with sunlight obscuring the bottom it looked ominous. Maureen decided that it was a very bad idea to try to wade this scary looking river with our heavy backpacks. However, I had waded across a few years ago and the alternative was a 22-mile hike to a paved road at Dolby or 11 miles back to Avalanche Field.
On with the Tevas and a slippery but successful crossing. The next mile along the river had not been marked in any way and we had to “bush whack” our way through. Torry, Roger and I had walked the general area along the river a few years ago and it did not seem very difficult at that time except for a beaver dam crossing. Three new factors quickly came into play. We had backpacks, were 7 hours into our hike and were wearing shorts. The first quarter mile was through old hardwoods and we left lime green flagging for Mother Naturs Son & Cotton Joe.
When we came to a backwater pond (bogan) created by the beavers Maureen wanted to go out to the river and wade along past the outlet to the other side. The brush and alders along the pond made very difficult going and in my wisdom I decided to go up stream and cross above the pond. A very unfortunate decision indeed. Where I decided to turn up pond was less than 100 feet from the end of the dam and the final location of the trail.
We followed the pond to an upper dam and crossed at a very unfortunate place where there was a steep bank combined with a classic fir thicket. After pawing our way through what would be bad with no backpack and dreadful trying to get through with a pack we came to a more open forest. I might add that I had the coordinates of the Keep Road that we were trying to reach. I had been on and located the end of the road 3 years ago. And all this time my GPS located us within 30 feet of nowhere.
Finally reaching the Keep Road, we flagged with lime green tape for MNS & CJ. By this time Maureen was bleeding badly – her legs all torn up!
We really needed a good place to tent and found one a short distance up hill in the middle of the road. It was about 9 hours after leaving Avalanche Field.
Maureen cooked supper, wrapped her legs to stop the bleeding from the cuts and bruises from the alders and fir thicket and exhausted we climbed into the tent. There was a full moon and we could catch a glimpse Katahdin through the trees.
The Keep Road/path is the location of the original Appalachian Trail to the summit of Katahdin. Marcus Keep was a minister from Aroostook County who guided early travelers to the mountain in the mid 1850’s from this easterly approach crossing East Branch near the Wassataquoik outlet.
We got up to a cool but very clear morning and after coffee and breaking camp we continued on the Keep Road. After a short distance the trail leaves the road and turns north. Again we left lime green flagging for the through hikers.
The next 2 miles follows along a new trail around the nose of Deasey. The trail starts in second growth hardwoods passing some very large erratics and then wanders through a wonderful old growth forest of Hemlock, Pine, Spruce and an occasional birch. Water is available at a couple of small brooks. This two-mile section ends on the fire trail to Deasey Mt. where we again tied lots of lime green flagging for the through hikers.
The fire trail is open, having been cleared of blow downs 3 years ago and cleaned up by an IAT crew earlier this summer. We turned left and climbed the easy up hill trail up to the Warden Cabin. Here we had a rest stop and investigated the condition of the building where the Warden and his wife lived for many years. From the cabin the trail continues up steeply and in some places could use new blazes.
As we were sitting on the steps of the warden cabin we were concerned that Mother Natures Son & Cotton Jpe had not passed us. Although we had not heard from them since leaving the meeting we had expected to meet them yesterday and were somewhat concerned. Along the fire trail we noticed fresh boot prints and wondered if it could be them. About half way to the top of Deasey from the warden cabin we met a hiker coming down who told us that there were two people on the top. They had asked him where the IAT trail left the Mt and he told them he had never heard of any IAT. This hiker had offered to take them down but they refused and the hiker thought they were going back the way they came.
Alarmed that they might go back the way they came we blew our whistle and ‘speeded’ up to the top. A few hundred feet from the top we met Mother Natures Son & Cotton Joe coming down. Cotton Joe commented that he thought the whistle he was hearing was a strange bird.
They both looked at Maureen and wanted to know what had happened to her legs?
They told us that they had left Matagamon yesterday morning, hiked the 17 miles to Lunksoos Lean-to, and stayed there last night. This morning they continued on the trail to the summit of Lunksoos and down to the col between Lunksoos and Deasey which was blazed and flagged well enough for them to follow. From the col they could not find the flagging up to the summit of Deasey (there was no cut trail) and bush whacked & struggled to the fire cabin at the summit. The start of the fire trail down is not well marked and because the hiker was not aware of the IAT they decided to call Dick on their cell. Deasey & Lunksoos are the only two places on the 36 miles with cell coverage. Dick gave them information and told them we were on the trail looking for them.
We updated the map that I had given them at the Twin Pines meeting, shared some food, took pictures, suggested that they wade the river around the beaver flowage and continued on to the fire cabin and a spectacular view of Katahdin and beyond.
From Deasey we looked at Lunksoos which was just starting to turn color. Maureen asked if there was a trail to Lunksoos and I said (after hearing the Mother Natures Son & Cotton Joe adventure) “sort of “.
Long story short: Three of us, some time ago, flagged a preliminary one mile route from the col between Lunksoos & Deasey to the top of Deasey. Mother Natures Son & Cotton Joe did not find the flagging..
We dead-headed the sometimes-steep mile down to the col and did not find any flagging until a few hundred feet from the col.. The col is a beautiful fairly open area where the land falls off gently on both sides. The trail up to the summit of south Lunksoos was uneventful and well marked. There are some open ledge areas near the top, which require close attention to the flagging. The summit is open ledge and the view is almost 360 degrees with Sugarloaf, and Chase in the distance and the East Branch Valley below. We continued down the one-mile of recently cleared trail to Lunksoos lean-to. Just before reaching the Lean-to, where the trail is following a winter logging road, there is an open top where a clear view of Lunksoos, Deasey and Katahidin can all be seen from this one point.
We set up camp and although Maureen wanted to continue on for another hour I was tired and had enough for one day. I have had the same boots for a long time and this was the first time I had a blister. From both the lean-to and the privy there is a clear view of Katahdin and Deasey. It was a beautiful evening and we went to get water after supper at the stream before an early to bed.
We awoke early to another sunny day.
After breakfast and cleanup we left Lunksoos at 7AM and had a nice view of Turner Mountain as we were going down the trail to Messer Pond/Orin Falls Road. Turning right on the Messer/Orin Falls Road after less than a mile, we hiked at a good pace the three plus miles crossing Little Spring Brook to an IAT POST and a right turn off the Messer Pond /Orin Falls Road. Along this last stretch the road goes up and down and there are places where there are views of the mountains near Grand Lake Matagamon. Along the way there were arrows with a ? scratched in the gravel road. We were curious as to why they were there and assumed that our through hikers scratched them there. Later Mother Natures Son told us that it was getting late, Cotton Joe was quite a way behind him and he placed them just beyond side roads so that Cotton Joe would know
that he had not yet found the side road to the Lunksoos lean-to. This part of the trail follows a recent very wide cut out road and it is difficult to find trees to blaze where they will be easy to see. Maureen suggested that an inexpensive and permanent solution in these areas where there is a plentiful supply of rocks would be that IAT should place cairns to aid the hikers.
At this point my back was hurting and we swapped backpacks hoping it would help. We continued easterly along the side road crossing the washed out Little Spring Brook bridge and on to the intersection with the Eagle Lake Tote Road. This is an ancient trail and road. It has an excellent base and is very easy hiking. The forest has grown in over the road and has provided a cover that makes this a particularly nice hiking trail.
Shortly after turning left and bearing north the road crosses Little Spring Brook for the third time. The East Branch is only a couple of hundred feet on the right and there is an abandoned campground near the river.
At this point my back was really hurting and we repacked all our gear into Maureen’s backpack.
For the next 12 miles to Grand Lake Road Maureen carried sleeping bags, thermarest pads, tent and more. We also stopped frequently for me to rest my back.
The road /trail is particularly beautiful and easy walking for the three miles to the town line of T5 R8 WELS. Along the way there is only one bridge over Big Spring Brook and no hills or wash outs. Just before crossing the town line we went to look at the bridge over the East Branch to Bowlin Camps. Just after crossing the town line there is a stand of White Pine (Pinus strobus) some of which are 13 feet in circumference. This stand is located near the top of a very steep esker the eastside of which terminates at the river. The old tote road is open but hard walking for about a half mile and then very nice going down to Grand Pitch lean-to.
At the Grand Pitch campsite we stopped for a rest and had lunch. The weather was perfect and the lean-to faces south so as to take full advantage of the sun. Maureen decided that we should to continue on taking full advantage of a great stretch of weather and not take a chance that tomorrow might bring rain. After leaving Grand Pitch we met a man & woman from Virginia, with their ORVIS guide walking in to fish near Grand Pitch. They were very impressed with Maureen and her large load. If we had our wits about us we would have asked them to take the backpacks out to the Matagamon Store and leave them with Sue and Joe. There was no other way for them to get out.
The next couple of miles follow the river very closely and we enjoyed the various sights and sounds. We could hear the river much of the way. Pond Pitch, Haskell Rock, Haskell Falls, Stair Falls and Thoreau’s Checkerberry-tea Camp.
A few years ago I kayaked down the river from Matagamon specifically to investigate if this Checkerberry-tea Camp could be located. There is only a very limited section of the river where these requirements can be met.
The road/trail passes over the four or five feet high bank that Thoreau described in his 1857 trip with Polis. Although he said that they were 5 miles from Matagamon Lake (nearer to two miles) there is only one location on the East Branch “where the river began to make a great bend to the east”, there is a high bank and the mountains could not be seen without coming out upon the shore.
Today “the interminable forest” is no longer there, the IAT road /trail is on “the abrupt ….edge of the bank, four or five feet high,.”. We stopped and had a rest in the warm afternoon sun, where we could see” the peculiar moose-faced Nerlumseechicook mountains (Billfish &Horse) ……in the northwest...a short distance behind...but we could not see this without coming out on the shore”.
Twenty eight miles into our trip and we came to the Messer Pond/Orin Falls Road and at about 5 PM we arrived at Grand Lake Road, 10 hours and 17 miles from Lunksoos Campsite.
The store was closed for business. Joe told us: they were in a hurry to pick up bear hunters & bear before dark; there was no chance we could get a ride back to Millinocket tonight; take a camp site; wait an hour or two and Sue would be back and might have some supper for us.
The sun was going down behind Billfish Mt; it was starting to get cold would soon be dark. We picked a site across the river, set up our tent, and Maureen went “champing” (her word) for firewood and she made a huge welcome fire.
I might add that we had our pick of campsites as we were the only tenters.
Sue returned after dark and one of her daughters made delicious cheeseburgers for us. The hot fresh coffee was particularly welcome. She was very busy preparing dinner for about 30 hungry bear hunters who were soon to return after a successful day in the woods.
We were in luck as a lady who had a year around trailer in the campground came into the store and agreed to take us to Millinocket at 7 AM tomorrow.
We heard the bear hunters come back but were too tired to join them.
The river was very loud but nice and we had a restful night after a long day out of doors.
When we were out of the tent at six next morning, Maureen mentioned that at least it was not freezing. I looked at my thermometer, 27 degrees, and the tent was covered with ice crystals.
Jane was at our site at seven and we were back in Millinocket at nine.
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